monomesh

The background to this described exercise was the result of serious problems that I was experiencing with wet ness and extreme damp affecting the floor of my bird room.

My bird room is constructed of 4” concrete blocks with a lined asbestos roof. The main problem is caused by my three 7’ x 26” roof lights. On a frosty morning particularly, water would drip from the roof lights like a rain—forest. The resultant wet concrete floor became a breeding ground for all the parasitic bacteria of the day. My records show that I was losing a dozen or so birds a year with crop type infections. Naturally it was usually the bigger, buffier type birds that succumbed because of a lesser resistance to illness than their smaller brethren. Obviously with losses like these you are severely handicapped in trying to build a winning bloodline.

I decided to experiment with a system of suspended flights. First of all I covered the inside flight floors with supported 1.5” x 1” x 14g weldmesh. The entire floor was covered and this did make it very inconvenient for servicing. Also I was a little concerned that it might cause broken legs when birds landed and walked about on it.

After a two-year period there were no broken legs or even a hint of leg problems. During the trial period the problem of premature deaths almost disappeared. Two birds died, one by getting his ring caught on copper wire securing millet sprays and another from unknown causes.

With the experience of the very successful test to guide me I sat down to turn the experimental model into a viable system. The criterion being:

1. HYGIENE. A compromise was required here because I do not always have time to maintain the floor in the necessary spotless condition that is required when floor dampness is a problem. My experiment showed that suspended wire floors are an effective remedy to this problem.

2. EASE OF SERVICING. Because some limit has to be placed on the time that can be spent with the birds it is necessary to keep the servicing time as short as possible. In the breeding season it takes me 1 1/2 to 2 hrs to properly check 24 nest boxes and perform other tasks. Any time saved here can be spent looking for sick birds, planning future pairings, looking for likely show birds and generally enjoying the birds.

3. COST. Cost is of course an important consideration for most fanciers. Initial cost needs to be afford able but consideration should also be given to long term maintenance cost, e.g. steel and weldmesh construction is probably cheaper than wood and wood claddings in initial cost and apart from paintwork cannot be damaged by the birds.

I approached Roland Moncaster of Ash & Lacy Moncaster and explained my objectives to him. He took a keen interest and kindly sent his Field Service Engineer down to Bristol to see what I was up to. The engineer was satisfied with the proposed new layout and impressed with the results of the two-year experiment.

As a result of his engineer’s report Roland Moncaster kindly agreed to sponsor the proposed layout on condition that any resulting benefits be publicised for the benefit of the fancy as a whole. Moncasters Wire Products dispatched rolls of 1” x 1/2” x 1g for the partitions and doors etc and 1 1/2” ‘ 1” x 14g for the floors.

As already mentioned, the building is construction of 4” concrete blocks with a concrete floor. My first job was to knock a doorway into an adjoining building to form a” shaped structure of 210 sqr. ft. My objective was not to expand my stud but to keep 20 —30 pairs in more comfort for the birds.

The layout can be best described as a form suspended cages everything is suspended ‘from angle iron firmly fixed to the walls. This leaves the floor completely free of obstructions so that it can easily be cleaned with either a brush or a vacuum cleaner. All the partition cladding is Monoield mesh and all framing 25 x 25 x 3mm and 30 x 30 x 5mm angle iron. The angle iron frames are welded through out. I borrowed a home welder ‘from a Budgie friend and practised on off cut bits of angle until I could make a reasonably good job of welding the frames myself.

The Monoweld mesh is fixed to the framing with 3/16” pop rivets and “mudgaurd” washers. These are steel washers with 3/16” holes and 1” outside diameters-when making the floor panels it is best to have the angles turned down with the Monoweld mesh fixed to tie underside. This leaves smooth obstruction ‘free surface for easy cleaning.

The heavier 30 w 30 x 5 mm angle iron is used to hang the partitions ‘from and also to support the 10ft breeding cage shelves.

FLIGHTS the original 20’ x 7’ is now divided into four 5 x 7’ areas. The floor plan is a linear arrangement with the three areas furthest from the door being suspended indoor flights. They are separated by 4 Weldmesh panels and accessed through Weldmesh panel sliding doors. Just two 6mm screws and nuts secure the fixed panels. The original idea was that I could lift off these panels to give a choice, or combination, of 5,10’ or 15’ inside flight areas. However I quickly realised that if I did this the birds would merely travel the available lengths by fluttering or hopping along the perches. By leaving the fixed partitions in place, and leaving the sliding doors open they would be forced to fly and also make turns in flight thus providing more exercise.

Most of the time my cocks, hens, and young birds fly together and so there is quite a lot of 4 tying being done. The doors and panels are clad with IN x I/2 x 16g Monoweld.

In gale force conditions I always worried that the roof lights might blow out and allow the birds in the flights to fly away. I have prevented that possibility now by making steel framed Monoweld panels that bolt up under the roof lights. This is also an extra security device against intruders.

Perching in the flights is designed for easy maintenance, without compromising the bird’s comfort. I have turned away from the usual angled rack fixing, preferring instead to keep the perches at one level. This helps to avoid stressful domination battles for highest perches, cuts down tail spoiling, and makes quality of birds easier to assess at one level. The side supporting angle irons are fixed to the back wall by short angles welded to the sides at a right angle. Dowel and roofing batten, on edge, are screwed to the undersides of the side angles alternately at suitable distances apart (four to a rack). This arrangement makes it beautifully easy to replace chewed perches and gives the birds a choice of perching that they can modify themselves.

The end 5’ x 7 area closest to the bird room entry doors gives access to the flight areas and the breeding room on the right. It is also a standing / viewing area that has access to two Monoweld mesh shelves with space underneath for all the required dustproof seed bins. I

have used 1” x 1/2” x 16g for one shelf and 1 112” x 1 14g +or the other. My objective was to eliminate flat solid surfaces that would sip— port dust. Instead of using doors for the cupboard I used curtains on a curtain spring. They can be washed and will not require painting.

The main birdroom access door faces my house and comprises an outer partially. glazed door that can be hooked fully open and an inner security door. that opens inward on heavy gate hinges and locks With a double lever padlock. The security door is constructed of heavy steel angle with welded concrete reinforcing bars and clad with 1” x 1/2” x 16g Monoweld mesh.

breeding cages

One of Tom Lewis's breeding cages with the front raised up.
The floor is covered with a black plastic bag for easy cleaning

BREEDING CAGES. The 10’ x 7’ area contains 24 breeding cages approximately 26” deep x 20” wide x 16” high. The large box within a box type nest box is situated in the right—hand front top corner of each cage. The uniformity should prevent hens developing a preference for opposite situated boxes.

The top cages no longer reach the 8’ 60 ceiling and that is why I have used Monoweld tops to stop dust settling on awkward to get at upper flat surfaces. The floors are the same as the ceiling but I cover these with pads of thick clear polythene of the type used for fork truck access doors. When cleaning out the soiled polythene is taken out and replaced with a previously cleaned piece. The soiled piece is then scraped, hosed, and left to dry for next time. I have enough spare sheets to be able to clean half the cages one week and half the next.

With only Moneweld underneath there is no hiding place for mites or other pests and the steel framing is also very inhospitable to mites or moths. As before the breeding cage separators are double panels of 1” x 1/20 x 16g Monoweld mesh with approximately a 3/4” gap between. This prevents young birds getting their toes pecked and also prevents unwanted liaisons between cocks and hens in adjoining cages.

The nestbox is fitted inside the cage with two 5mm screws through two clearance holes in the front cage support angle and into a tapped out fixing on the nest box top, This is really solid and allows the cage separator to be secured to the nest box by means of a 5mm screw and wingnut with a spacer between the weldmesh panels to maintain the gap.

When the breeding season is over it is easy to remove separators and nestboxes to leave four useful 10’ stock cages. As mentioned in a previous CAGE & AVIARY BIRDS article the fronts are simply frameless 200 x 160 1 x 1/20 x 16g Monoweld panels that hinge upward for easy unrestricted access. The fronts hook up to leave both hands free. These fronts are such cheaper than conventional fronts and will last forever without any maintenance at all each hinges on two 1 1/2” butt hinges and fasten with turn catches. Sometimes a bird will fly out but that is not a problem because they only fly into a secure area. In fact most do not bother and even the more nervous ones get used to it and retreat to the back of the cage.

One snag of course with fronts that hinge upward you cannot use clip on drinkers or finger drawers on the front. I have overcome this by making little clips from Weldmesh to secure finger drawers on the inner side panels and I do not use clip on drinkers.

I am very pleased with my perch arrangement. They are easy to make and maintain and very solid for mating

A steel bracket, lined to the back wall o~ each cage with rawplugs for easy removal, holds a 6” piece of rough-cut roof batten by means of a screw and wing nut. A piece of 5/8” wood dowel is drilled through the opposite end to form an equal sided ‘T’ piece. It is quickly removable for cleaning or renewal. Most importantly it is solid and offers a choice of two surfaces for mating. With 1b~ of dowel I have a total of 22” 0+ perch space plus the perch on the nest box.

NEST BOXES. PHOTOS 11 & 12 show the components of my nestboxes. They are of course just a variation of the box within a box favoured by Gerald Binks and described in his book, ‘Best in Show’.

What I have done is added a slot at the far bottom / back of the outer box to allow debris to be pushed back ~y the drawer so that it falls through the slot. There is no bottom to the drawer; the bottom is formed by the removable concave that rests in the drawer on small ledges at front and back. This allows unrestricted access for a small brush or vacuum tool and leaves no hiding place for mites etc..

By using different coloured handles on the drawers I can see at a glance the parental trustworthiness of the occupants. e.g. black handle — tried and trusted pair. grey handle — untried pair and red handle — known trouble makers, in an emergency. ‘Then you might be short of time, you could quickly see where to foster eggs or chicks.

The space above the breeding cages is enclose by two 5 foot removable wooden fronts to provide a large useful storage area.

The cage runs the length of the 10’ x 7’ area on the right hand side. There is almost a full length sliding window behind this.. The window is protected on the inside by a removable panel of 1” x ½ x 16g monoweld. This prevents birds flying into it. or out of it when it is open.

The cage reaches to the ceiling this eliminates the need for a top thus avoiding another surface for dust which would be a health hazard when disturbed by escaped birds. The whole front consists of four full-length doors wired with 1” x 1/2” x log Monoweld mesh. The two centre doors have a useful variation; they have a small full width lower portion that hinges upward on the main hinged door. This particularly beneficial for my wife who kindly feeds the birds if I work late. She car feed the young birds through the smaller access without them flying over her teat. The four doors each have their own outer doorposts that three dividers can be slipped in to make four sections for easier catching.

The cage floor, an area 10’ x 18” of 1 1/2” x 1” x 14g Monoweld mesh, is left uncovered so that droppings fall through to a similar shelf 6” below that is covered with removable sheets of vinyl. The front of this lower area is open for a good airflow and easy access for cleaning.

The perch arrangement is novel and again designed with easy maintenance in mind. As in the main flight the wooden perches are easily detached from welded steel supports for renewal or cleaning.

At the rear extreme top of the cage 1 have fabricated a steel section that runs the full 10’ width of the building and has exactly the same profile as the sloping inside of a show cage. Show cage perches are arranged along the entire length with the same spacing as in a show cage. Be in the highest perches this is where the young birds prefer to be and of course they are getting the feel of being in a show cage. As a bonus the galvanised steel that I have used for the angle is shiny and this allows the young birds to see their reflections and shadows. This should help to eliminate that common problem we see at shows when bards nervously rotate their heads around as if frightened of their shadow or reflection. I am rather lazy when it comes to show cage training and my cage Is a big assistance in managing without training.

One very good point in favour of my system is that when bards are alarmed it is their natural instinct to fly up and away from danger. With my show type perches set high at the back this is where they would feel safest. Following this logic they would be less likely to go down and hide under the drinker at a show. .

At 6 weeks I put the young birds in the young bird stock / show preparation cage until they are 12 weeks old. They have the advantage of adequate, but not to much flying space, easy access to food and water in a relativity clean area where they cannot reach there own droppings and they are getting confidence on show cage perches.

Later in the year the show team will be returned to the cage that they are familiar with. The birds can be sprayed in the cage, that is only 18” wide, and should be able to stay clean. Being older now they will not fly so much with the right diet they can be encouraged to put on weight, but not so much that they become ugly and unable to fly.

To summarise: I have used steel angle framing throughout. It is non-destructible by birds, only requiring painting occasionally. The welded joints are not very accommodating to mite and other micro pests. Monoweld mesh is the only cladding to use. It is cheaper than any other form of cladding and has the obvious advantages of not restricting light or ventilation. It allows instant inspection of occupants of all areas and is everlasting with zero maintenance. Used intelligently it is very versatile and is ideal for most flat or horizontal supporting roles because it does not support much dust.

In conclusion I would like to thank Roland Moncaster of Ash & Lacy Moncaster for his help and the quality Monoweld mesh that made this project possible.